The T Checklist: 5 Issues We Suggest This Week

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The new Hotel Les Deux Gares in the 10th arrondissement of Paris is a collision between French and British styles. The 40-room hotel in a 19th-century Haussmannian building between Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est is the fourth offering from the Touriste Hospitality Group – and by far the boldest. The bedrooms are airy and colorful: there are striped headboards with mismatched curtains; The walls are painted olive green and light pink with contrasting ceilings and trimmings. The bathrooms are fitted with light, primarily tinted tiles. “I love the imagination of hotels,” says the English artist Luke Edward Hall, whom the founder of Touriste, Adrien Gloaguen, hired to design the interiors. “In the back of my mind, the room was the home of a bohemian Parisian collector that was opened to guests.” Taking inspiration from Wes Anderson’s 2014 film The Grand Budapest Hotel, he chose the theater and acted fearlessly with prints (leopard and toile) and periods. In the Art Deco-inspired corners of the hotel are antique tables from the French Empire with lights and lampshades depicting Hall’s sketches. His eclectic vision of French hospitality continues at Café Les Deux Gares across the street, a traditional bistro with a cherry-red bar and a tortoiseshell ceiling made of trompe l’oeil by artist Pauline Leyravaud. Room rates start at $ 152 per night, 2, Rue des Deux Gares, Paris, France, hoteldeuxgares.com.

Misa Maruyama Jones grew up on the Kekaha sugar plantation in Kauai, Hawaii and always enjoyed tasting the moringa leaves in her cup of tinola, a soothing chicken-green papaya soup that her Filipino neighbors would make. “Eating the neighbors’ home cooking at weekend parties was a part of life,” she says, noting how the delicate leaves were usually harvested from a garden tree. The moringa tree – also known as the malangguy – is native to South Asia but came to Hawaii thanks to Filipino immigrants who worked in the sugar cane and pineapple fields in the first half of the 20th century. Despite its long-standing reputation in Hawaii for healing properties, moringa has only recently become the subject of an organic food craze on the mainland. Now its leaves are crushed into powder and taken as a dietary supplement. These products, says Maruyama Jones, were initially not recognizable as the same plant for many locals. However, some chefs have taken the powdered form and sprinkled it over scallop crudo, miso ramen, or furikake salmon. And Maruyama Jones believes moringa seeds and capsules helped save her father’s life when he battled cancer four years ago. This inspired her and her husband Geoff to open their own moringa farm on the Big Island in Kailua-Kona – Maruyama Jones Farm in 2016, selling products such as moringa seed oil and moringa leaf matcha tea. From $ 15 at maruyamajonesfarm.com.

The most disturbing part of Julia Phillips’ work is what she leaves out. The German sculptor, who divides her time between Chicago and Berlin, shapes ceramics into devices that match the curves of the human body. Although they are mounted in such a way that they suggest interaction, they do not invite objects. For example, “New Album,” an exhibition of Phillips’ works now on view at Matthew Marks, is black binoculars that are angled down and mounted on a stainless steel stand. Its ends are glazed in a mottled salamirosa, the edges of the eye holes are cracked and bumpy. At the back of the gallery are two clay slabs, each shaped to cover the back of a person’s head, ears, neck, and shoulders, on poles. You are angled as if you wanted to push your head forward, forcing the invisible bearer to look at the ground; the other cranked his head back and exposed the delicate slope of the neck. Phillips’ use of negative space implies a subtle kind of violence. “I’m not interested in designing agonizing elements or actual functional elements,” said the artist in Berlin in 2018. “I’m interested in making sculptures that are a kind of mind game.” Inspired by black feminist thinking and the power structures embedded in colonialism, Phillips hopes that viewers will use their imagination to “finish” these empty devices – and wonder whether they are the doer or the done one. “New Album” will be aired through October 17, 2020 at Matthew Marks on 523 West 24th Street in New York City. Reservations are recommended, matthewmarks.com.

This week releases the highly anticipated JW Anderson collection from Moncler’s Genius, an ongoing collaborative series between the Italy-based brand and various designers like Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn and Matthew M. Williams from 1017 ALYX 9SM. “I’m from Northern Ireland,” said Anderson of his interest in Moncler on Zoom, “so I’m very used to the cold.” Many of the 31 looks in the collection (around 180 pieces in total) were based on Anderson’s productive archive as a designer of his brand of the same name (he is also the Creative Director of Loewe) – details such as floppy, wide-brimmed hats and oversized chains The handle of a bag may seem like one look unfamiliar – but all are made from Moncler’s signature nylon material to keep the frost out. “I’ve always loved puffers,” he added. “I love the shape they create. I’ve always wanted to play with it in my own collections. There is nothing like volume. It adds to the theatrics, and you can build character from it and create some kind of abstraction. “Anderson didn’t shy away from bold colors and chose canary yellow, silk pink, red and a bright sky blue for many of the items. A long vest with mallards and other pond fauna with matching boots and bags should also be emphasized. Anderson admitted that it was his way of exploring nostalgia: “I was thinking of summer camp and a kid’s sleeping bag.” Both playful and dramatic, Anderson’s Brain Collection promises to not only keep you warm but also make you think. moncler.com.

“When you work in perfume for your home, you want safety, comfort, cleanliness and luxury,” said fragrance impresario Frédéric Malle when we complained about our mutual turmoil with life in quarantine. Male’s recently reanimated room spray perfume gun, a bold object made of smooth ceramic – cheekily crafted to emulate a bottle of Windex – is just the indulgence many of us now spend at home. It is available in two fragrances, both from Male’s popular line of candles: Cafe Society and Jurassic Flower. The former is an earthy homage to the Paris of the 1950s in Male’s childhood, reconstructed from his fond memories of evenings in his parents’ Rive Gauche apartment. The air turned with a Guerlain scent that is no longer made. The latter is obtained from the white blossoms of the magnolia tree and offers a summery citrus scent with notes of peach and apricot. Before the pandemic, I sprayed Malles perfumes on myself as armor before going out into the world. It is now a private ritual to spray my living room with Cafe Society every morning, like conjuring up an invisible talisman that promises to ward off the unrest of this seemingly endless stretch of internal restriction. $ 195, fredericmalle.com.

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